Ease into the slow life in Nan

If you ask repeat visitors to Thailand what their favourite destination is in the north of the country, there’s a good chance the answer will be Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai. They are both wonderful destinations in their own right, but there is so much more to North Thailand. If you want to discover ‘Unseen Thailand’ away from the tourist trail, you can use Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai as a base to explore destinations like Nan.

When you stay in the delightful provincial capital of Nan, it feels like you are stepping back in time. With no high-rise buildings and abundant local charm, this town has successfully preserved its traditions and culture.

History

In ancient times, Nan was difficult to reach with its remote location and mountainous terrain. It remained an independent kingdom for centuries before becoming a semi-autonomous part of the Lanna kingdom in the 15th Century. Nan subsequently came under Burmese control, but regained its independence in the late 18th century. It wasn’t until 1931 that Nan finally became a part of Thailand (then known as Siam).

Nan Old City

In March 2025, Nan Old City won the Gold Award from the Green Destinations Awards. Nan Old City was the only winner from Asia of this prestigious award, which was announced at the world’s largest travel trade show, ITB Berlin. Green Destinations leads the world’s largest community of destinations committed to sustainability. This was further recognition for Nan Old City following the success of Nan Boutique Hotel at the 2024 Responsible Thailand Awards.

The description used in the Green Destinations Award was ‘Nan Living Old City’, an apt title for this forward-thinking provincial capital, which is proud of its heritage and traditions. As mentioned in our introduction, you’ll find no high-rise buildings or mass tourism in Nan Old City. What you will find is a small city admired by Thai tourists for its slow life ethos. This is a destination that reminds Thai travellers of what life used to be like long before the advent of international tourism and modern conveniences.

While much of Nan’s charm is rooted in the past, this is a living, thriving city with the younger generation taking an active role in protecting their home. If you take a tram tour at the weekend or during the school holidays, it is often local school children in traditional dress who provide the commentary and act as tour guides.

Responsible tourism in Nan

The Walking Street Market has been proactive in encouraging recycling and reducing waste. Foam containers are banned and vendors are encouraged to use biodegradable paper food containers instead. Volunteers are on hand to help visitors place waste into the correct bins to ensure as much waste as possible is recycled.

What to see and do in Nan

Nan’s old quarter is an intimate immersion into Lanna heritage. Take a stroll or cycle around town to soak up the character, or take a tram tour to see some of the main highlights.

15 of the best things to see and do in Nan

Old City

There are several historic temples in Nan, with Wat Phumin being the star attraction in the Old City. Built in 1596, its unique cruciform ubosot and intricate Tai Lue murals (including the beloved ‘Whispering of Love’) are a highlight. Wat Ming Muang, the city‑pillar temple, is nearby. This white stucco shrine houses Nan’s official city pillar and was said to have inspired Chiang Rai’s famous White Temple.

A short tuk‑tuk ride or pleasant cycle ride out of town (you’ll need to walk the last stretch to the temple) takes you to the temple of Wat Phra That Khao Noi, perched on a hill overlooking the old city. It’s the perfect place for sunrise or golden‑hour photos with the Buddha statue looking out over Nan.

Nan National Museum, housed in a former royal palace, vividly portrays the region’s history and ethnic diversity, with exhibits on Lanna and hill‑tribe cultures. The grounds are also home to Wat Noi, which at first glance appears to be a spirit house but is in fact the smallest temple in Thailand.

Pay a visit to the photogenic Nan Noble House (Hong Chao Fong Kham), a 19th‑century teak mansion. This traditional building offers insight into a bygone aristocratic life and hosts live Tai Lue weaving demonstrations.

It’s worth getting up early for the atmospheric morning market, and with so many temples nearby, the monks on their morning alms around is always an impressive sight.

Each Friday to Sunday evening, the Nan Walking Street (Kad Kuang Muang Nan) lights up with craft stalls, street food, Lanna music, and a lively local vibe. During the day, take your time in the laid‑back eateries dotting the old town where you can sample famous northern Thai dishes like khao soi or khanom jeen nam ngiao.

A short walk from Wat Ming Muang brings you to remnants of the Lanna-era city wall, which are beautifully maintained and in an area popular with morning joggers and cyclists. To see more of Nan away from the old district, hire a bicycle to ride along the Nan River banks, especially near the bridges that unite the old and new parts of town.

Located across the river to the east of the city centre, Wat Phra That Chae Haeng is one of Nan’s most revered temples. The tall golden chedi is said to contain a relic of the Buddha, and the temple is the location for an annual festival (held in February or March, depending on the lunar calendar).

Nan Province

The countryside around Nan is a tranquil, largely untouched region known for its scenic mountain landscapes, ethnic minority villages, and authentic rural charm.

One of the most picturesque rural areas in Nan is Pua district, nestled in a valley surrounded by green rice fields and rolling hills. Visit Wat Phuket for panoramic views of the rice paddies below, especially stunning during the rainy season when the fields are vibrant green. Nearby, explore traditional Tai Lue villages, where locals still weave cotton by hand, and learn about their unique textiles and way of life.

To the northeast, the Bo Kluea District (also spelt Bo Klua) offers a fascinating glimpse into traditional mountain living. This peaceful village is famous for its ancient salt wells, where saltwater is drawn from the ground and boiled in clay pots, a method unchanged for generations. Bo Kluea is also a great base for scenic drives through the mountains, especially along Highway 1081, one of the most beautiful roads in Thailand.

Don’t miss Sapan Village, near Bo Kluea, a photogenic highland hamlet surrounded by rice terraces and streams. It’s a popular destination for Thai travellers seeking misty mornings, rural homestays, and local coffee.

Make the short trip southwest of Nan Old City to the award-winning Bo Suak Village. A superb example of community-based tourism, Bo Suak was recognised by UN Tourism as a Best Tourism Village and is the first community in Thailand to earn this accolade.

For nature lovers, Doi Phu Kha National Park is a must. As the largest national park in northern Thailand, it features winding mountain roads, viewpoints above the clouds, and rare flora like the chomphu phu kha tree, which blooms with pink flowers in February/March. Hiking trails, waterfalls, and scenic picnic spots make this park ideal for a day trip or overnight camping adventure.

In Mae Charim district, more adventurous visitors can go white-water rafting on the Wa River, particularly during the green season (June to October). The area is rich in biodiversity and dotted with hill tribe communities, especially Hmong and Mlabri (often called ‘Pee Tong Luang‘, which translates as ‘Spirits of the Yellow Leaves’), who have a special affinity with the forest.

Itinerary Ideas: Chiang Rai, Nan, Phrae, Phayao

How to get to Nan

Air
Low-cost carriers Air Asia and Nok Air operate flights to Nan from Bangkok Don Muang airport. Flight time is around one hour.

Bus
Green Bus Company offers a good choice of comfortable bus services that link Nan with Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Phayao and Phrae. Journey time from Chiang Mai to Nan is around six hours, and five hours from Chiang Rai to Nan.

Train
There is currently no train service to Nan. You can take the Northern Line train from Bangkok to the end of the line at Chiang Mai and travel onwards to Nan from there. A new railway line is scheduled to open in 2028 and will link Phrae, Lampang, Phayao and Chiang Rai.

Map of Nan